This fellow put together probably the best buyers guide for all the different kinds of SSD’s and interfaces. Definitely worth a read if you want to know the ins and outs of all the current market offerings.
It seems that as games target more platforms on release, they are increasingly dumbing down the controls and limit features to the lowest common denominator platform. For PC’s, this mean frame rates are often capped at 60fps. Dead by Daylight goes even further by not even allowing you to change the FPS limit in the PC game. Those that have tried increasing the limit have run into various animation/physics bugs – indicating that this limit on the PC is due to lack of validation/issues.
The good news is you can remove this limit. If you want to change the VSync or FPS limit then edit GameUserSettings.ini located in your user directory:
Change the following line to whatever you want your max frame rate to be. I have a 144hz display, so I set mine to this:
This next step is not required if you just want to set the FPS limit, but you can also to turn vsync on/off by changing this line to true/false respectively:
Save file. Play game.
Ad blockers such as uBlock Origin and Adblocker make the web usable – but are not available on every platform and not of the same quality.
Pi-hole is an Linux-based server setup that absorbs ads by filtering DNS requests. You set up the Pi-hole server on a simple Raspberry Pi, set your devices to use the pi-hole server to resolve DNS entries, and voila – any requests to ad sites are immediately and transparently absorbed.
This is far superior to ad block applications for a few reasons. First, because the websites doesn’t even know you’re using it, you will never get those annoying ‘disable adblock to continue’ messages. With a little extra work, you can make your wired/wireless router also run DNS requests through it so that all devices wifi connected phones/laptops/game systems/etc get free ad filtering.
I just set one up this weekend on a raspberry pi and it’s been interesting to play with so far. Pi-hole has been a bit too fiddly in the past, but seems to be working pretty well these days with a slick web interface and easy installation. So far, it has worked really well – but I do occasionally get a false positive and have to turn the filtering off. I’ll give it a few days and see if it grows on me.
Here’s the instructions I used: https://blog.cryptoaustralia.org.au/instructions-for-setting-up-pi-hole/
Changing the DNS for your Win10 system while still using DHCP:
Setting up SSH after install on your raspberry pi so you can access your pi hole via windows/putty/etc.
Here’s the parts list from Amazon:
Running out of memory while running Windows isn’t exactly a new phenomenon. But since Windows 8, things have mostly gotten better from memory usage/performance.
I recently ran into an issue where I’d close down all of my apps, but leave my system on overnight. When I’d jiggle the mouse in the morning, I would be greeted with horrendously sluggish drive swapping and 100% memory utilization. On a system with 32 gigs of memory. Even worse, I opened up my task manager and shut down everything possible – but nothing was indicated where 25+ gigs of memory went. Bad job Microsoft, shouldn’t your performance tools be able to tell me what is using up 90% of my system memory?
I got a clue from the fact my non-pageable memory usage was huge. This, apparently, indicates a driver or service with a memory leak:
The problem was the Killer Network Suite. Apparently, this is a pretty common problem with the Killer network driver. I uninstalled it, and the problems seemed to go away.
I then downloaded and installed the DRIVER ONLY package for the network interface by going directly to the Killer network website.
Turns out that the Killer network suite unfortunately lives up to it’s name: it certainly killed all the memory on my system. 🙁
Developing a iOS app used to require buying a Macbook or Mac mini. With VMWare, it is no longer necessary. I used VMWare Workstation 15.0 Pro and was able to develop an app and debug it on real iPad/iPhone hardware. Setup instructions are here:
Here’s the latest VMWare Mojave 10.14.4, 18E226 (March 25, 2019) image:
Further tips after the above setup
- Connecting iPad/iPhone/watch:
- In the Virtual Machine (VMWare) settings, set the USB compatibility to be 2.0 instead of 3.0.
- Also go to VM -> Removable devices, and connect the phone/pad/watch to the guest (it will disconnect from the host).
- Display Scaling:
- Disable HiDPI resolution (disable Auto Scaling): Open the VMX file then paste this code
gui.applyHostDisplayScalingToGuest = "FALSE"
- Shut down the virtual machine, and select Edit -> Preferences
- Make sure ‘Autofit window’ and ‘Autofit guest’ are checked
- Disable HiDPI resolution (disable Auto Scaling): Open the VMX file then paste this code
Handy technique for saving texture space! There are various tools to do this, but the basic scheme is to split up a large texture into much smaller chunks, individually trimming these chunks, and seamlessly reconstructing the sprite in the viewport.
Getting your backdoor Roth IRA right is very tricky. If done incorrectly, you can find yourself owing a ton of money and more than negating the value of contributions.
Here is a higher-level discussion:
Also look here for much more in-depth information:
Floppy disks are a relic of the past these days. You might still see the odd 3.5″ floppy – and there are even still companies making 3.5″ USB drives you can plug into your system today. But 5.25″ floppy drives (360k and 1.2 meg variety) are much more scarce. So scarce, in fact, that you’re likely not to find any outside of old vintage computers. Most modern PC’s since the Pentiums don’t even have connectors or interfaces that support them and I know of no vendors that make USB 5.25″ drives.
So what is one to do if they have old 5.25″ floppies they need to read? Turns out others have had the same problem – so you’re not alone. You have the following options:
- Find a service that will convert them – Usually for a fee around $5-$10 per disk.
- Buy an old vintage pre-Intel Core based computer from eBay that has a working 5.25″ drive.
- Use a 5.25″ to USB converter.
- Kryoflux – https://www.kryoflux.com/ -the Holy Grail of floppy readers. Is able to read all formats. Save as raw stream, or export to common sector formats supporting: Acorn Electron, Apple, Amstrad CPC, Archimedes, Atari 8-bit, Atari ST, BBC, Commodore 64, Commodore Amiga, MSX, IBM PC, PC-8801, Sam Coupe, Spectrum, E-MU Emulator & Emulator II, DEC RX01 & RX02 and many, many others https://www.kryoflux.com/
- Device Side Data’s FC5025 –http://www.deviceside.com/fc5025.html – USB 5.25″ floppy controller plugs into any computer’s USB port and enables you to attach a 5.25″ floppy drive. Even if your computer has no built-in floppy controller, the FC5025 lets you read those old disks. And it’s not just for IBM PC disks – it also understands formats used by Apple, Atari, Commodore and TI, among others.
- Supercard Pro. – Here’s a review and this page which contains a lot of useful information.
I recently bought a used 2016 14″ Razer Blade M970 (RX09-01652E22) gaming laptop for about 20% the price of a new one (seems the only things that lose value faster than a Porsche driving off the lot are gaming laptops with last gen technology). I needed this one since it had a high-end GPU that allowed me to do modern DX12/Vulkan work, while being in a nice transportable 14″ slim form factor (it had a M970 graphics card).
While a screaming deal, there was one other noise problem: the fans. Gaming laptops are kind of notorious for needing powerful fans to cool their graphics cards. Both the fans in this laptop were starting to make bearing noises. The temps were fine and the fans worked ok – they were just a little noisier than they should have been. I took them out and cleaned them, but same result.
The originals are Cooler Master FB07006M05SPA312’s. DC 5v 0.5A, 4 pin connector.
Unfortunately, finding these guys turned up next to zero hits. Best options I could find were:
- Live with it – but know the fans might be dying/making more noise soon.
- Send it in to Razer and they’re replace them out of warranty. They charged a flat $100 rate + parts (they quoted me about $20) + shipping. About $150. Ouch.
- Buy used fan/heat-sink assembly off eBay. They were still charging around $40, and the fans were definitely all used. They could have the same noise issues as I was having – or have them soon.
- Dig deeper.
I opted for #4 and found a company on AliBaba that hit the spot. I found this vendor selling off-brand versions that looked and speced out right. I took the gamble since the price was $32 for 2 fans – a SCREAMING deal:
They arrived about 2+ weeks later as I opted for the free shipping. I popped out the old ones and can confirm these look and fit identically to the originals – sans the CoolerMaster stickers. They appeared to be brand new. Temps all appeared fine after gaming for well over an hour. They revved up to full power and then back down to idle perfectly. Best of all – they were nice and quiet. Success!
If you are looking for originals, I found these at $65/each, but that’s pretty steep to me:
Glad to know our doctors and academics are still producing lots of great papers. While some things like magnets are seriously dangerous if swallowed, the goal of this one was to get over-protective parents to calm down about the risk of many other commonly swallowed household items.
Six pediatric health‐care professionals were recruited to swallow the head of a Lego figurine. The professionals then examined their stool samples for the next few days to determine:
- If Lego pieces passed through their system or got stuck
- The time it took to pass the Lego piece.
Full paper here: