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Category: Problem solutions

XAMPP on Windows – Port 443 used by VMware

XAMPP on Windows – Port 443 used by VMware

I was just installing XAMPP on my windows 7 x64 box, I tried to start Apache and got this message:

Problem detected!
Port 443 in use by ""C:\Program Files (x86)\VMware\VMware Workstation\vmware-hostd.exe" -u "C:\ProgramData\VMware\hostd\config.xml"" with PID 4688!
Apache WILL NOT start without the configured ports free!
You need to uninstall/disable/reconfigure the blocking application
or reconfigure Apache and the Control Panel to listen on a different port

Unfortunately, VMWare Workstation places it’s host ports on the same ones needed by Apache.  The solution is to change the apache ports via this procedure:

  1. Open the XAMPP Control Panel
  2. Click the ‘Config’ button next to the Apache module and select the ‘Apache (httpd-ssl.conf)‘ option
  3. A text edit box will pop up with the contents of httpd-ssl.conf
  4. Find the line with Listen 443
  5. Change 443 to some other open port – like 4430
  6. Do a search/replace in the file for all the references to 443 and change them to 4430 (should be like 3-4 of them)
  7. save and exit the editor
  8. Start Apache

If all goes well, it should start right up on ports 80, 4430.  Test it by going to localhost in your web browser and you should see the familiar xampp control panel

Update 2020-02-02:
Thanks to Spadez for this additional info:

I found I also had to set it via the Service and Port Settings in the Xampp Config. In the Xampp control panel click the Config button then the Port settings button and set the port number there.

Use Windows Git with proxy server

Use Windows Git with proxy server

Shesh – you’d think they’d have this more easily found on the official GIT website.

  1. Open a bash or cmd GIT shell
  2. git config --global http.proxy http://my.proxy.server:1234

That should do it.

 

VMWare Workstation 10 and SteamOS Beta

VMWare Workstation 10 and SteamOS Beta

steamosbeta

Installing SteamOS natively was a real pain in the rear during the alpha.  You had to do a lot of fiddling to get it working, and it didn’t have very good hardware support.  The most successful virtual-machine installs were on VirtualBox at the time.  I managed to get that working but it required a lot of linux/unix experience.  Far beyond what most people would want.

Valve, however, just released SteamOS Beta last month.  I downloaded a copy and it’s much, MUCH easier to install.  That, and it seems to install ok in VMware (which has much better hardware support than VirtualBox).

There’s still some gotcha’s.  Upon trying to run Left4Dead2, I get errors about unsupported OpenGL extensions, but I am using VMware’s hardware drivers.  I still have some experimenting to do – maybe I can get it working properly.  But the BigPicture and all the other experience is there.

Here is the procedure (wrote this up around midnight – so forgive the typos.  I’ll clean it up later):

  1. Download the SteamOS Beta iso from this link.  Valve has done a nice job here in already packaging it as a bootable iso file.  So no more needing to use 3rd party tools to create bootable iso files or boot off usb sticks after writing them via special programs.
  2. Set up your VMware system using the following settings:
    1. Custom (advanced) setup
    2. Hardware compatibility: Workstation 10.0
    3. Select a guest operating system: Debian 7 64-bit
    4. Processors: 2 processors, 2 cores per processor (4 total)
    5. Memory: 4096MB
    6. Hard drive 500MB (40MB minimal)
  3. Save your settings and close the VMware application.
  4. Go to the file location where you created the virtual machine in Step 2
  5. Open the .VMX file associated with it and add this line to the end:
    firmware = "efi"
  6. Start VMware Workstation back up.
  7. Set the virtual machine’s cdrom drive to point to the iso you downloaded in step 1.
  8. Start up the virtual machine and you should get the steam installer started
  9. Follow the procedure for the install as normal.  Nothing special needed.  It will reboot when finished.
  10. Here’s where things might diverge.  If you have an nVidia card, odds are good you won’t have issues, but for those with ATI cards, you might.
  11. Upon reboot after install, I got a delay then Debian started up in fallback mode.
  12. Either way, complete the steam install by agreeing to the licensing terms.
  13. You’ll see the steam platform update itself.  Log into Steam using your Steam account.
  14. You should have a steam client up after logging in.
  15. For those with ATI cards or the dreaded blank screens after reboot, do this step to install VMware tools BEFORE rebooting.
    1. Open a terminal prompt.
    2. Click on the ‘Install VMware tools’ option on the bottom of the VMware window, or select VM->Install VMware Tools option from the top menu.
    3. On the desktop, open the CD-ROM drive that appears and copy the VMwareTools-x.x.x-xxxxxxxx.tar.gz (x’s will be the latest version number).
    4. copy the tarball to /tmp via:
      cp VMWareTools-x.x.x.xxxxx.tar.gz /tmp
    5. log in as the ‘desktop’ user. SteamOS has two accounts: ‘steam’ and ‘desktop’. You need to be ‘desktop’ to issue any sudo commands.
      su - desktop
    6. The default password for the ‘desktop’ user is ‘desktop’.  You need to be logged in as desktop to have su privileges.
    7. cd /tmp
    8. gunzip VMWareTools-x.x.x.xxxxx.tar.gz
    9. tar -xvf VMWareTools-x.x.x.xxxxx.tar
    10. cd VMWareTools-x.x.x.xxxxx.tar (correction: cd vmware-tools-distrib)
    11. sudo ./vmware-install.pl -default
    12. Answer yes to the prompt and VMware tools will install.
    13. When it’s complete, reboot:
      sudo reboot
  16. When your system reboots, you should be in SteamOS big-picture mode!  Log in and enjoy!

Helpful links:
Initial setup instructions for VMware with pictures
http://www.vmwareandme.com/2014/01/guide-installing-steamos-on-vmware.html#.UwMJVIW0x1G

VMware tools
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUK7Ycy2kzo

Using your TWAIN driver for your Canon CanoScan LIDE 25 on Windows 7 x64 Photoshop CS6

Using your TWAIN driver for your Canon CanoScan LIDE 25 on Windows 7 x64 Photoshop CS6

In a follow-up article from last year, here’s the link to the TWAIN drivers for your CanoScan scanner so that you can get it working with Photoshop CS4/CS5/CS6 on 64-bit Windows.

Again, please not this ONLY works with the 32-bit version of Adobe Photoshop CS4/CS5/CS6.  TWAIN support is not available on 64-bit versions of Photoshop.

http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/twain-plug-photoshop-cs4-cs5.html#id_51241

Japan – using your cell phone

Japan – using your cell phone

So, one of the biggest useful tools when in a strange place is being able to use your cel phone.  Looking up maps, bus, and train schedules saves you oodles of headaches, frustration, and lost time you could spend exploring and enjoying your trip.  But using a cel phone abroad is also full of horror stories.  People arriving back home with $1000 bills for roaming charges.

So, off to the forums to read about it.  Turns out my current carrier AT&T offers an international 300MB plan for $60 and 600MB plan for $120.  That felt a bit steep for me as a friend who went for a week said that 300MB was barely enough for 7 days.  So, I started digging around on traveling forums and found a variety of companies.

Googling tends to pop up lots of different companies with many options.  Some will rent you a whole phone for your trip. Some rent SIM cards that replace your current one.  Others rent wireless hubs which you can tether your cel phone and/or PC and other devices.  Depending on what you need and how long your trip is, there are lots of options.  If you are staying a long time (month+) and want to actually get a Japanese phone plan, you usually need to show a vista that indicates you have at least 90 days of stay left before they’ll let you get one so you don’t leave the country with their phone.

The tricky part about these companies is that half of them look like scams – and others are full of fine print.  Softbank comes up top on many searches for renting sim cards for your phone in Japan.  Seems like a good deal, $1/day minimum, 0.31 cents/packet with a $15/day max that then covers unlimited data.  Sounds pretty good.  Um, but a packet is 128 bytes so you hit the $15 max in 620,000 bytes, or about the size of one jpg image.  In other words, you’re probably going to pay $15/day if you even turn it on.  A 10 day stay will then run you $150 – which is worse than the plan from AT&T.

Instead, I dug around on the forums and found these guys: eConnect.  These guys offer 1gb of data for a flat 4100 yen (or about $40).  What you are doing is renting/buying a SIM to replace the one in your phone.  They also have phone/text plans, as well as separate WIFI hubs for those with bigger needs/more devices.  I opted for the $40 data only SIM plan since I didn’t need to make phone calls and could send emails instead of texts.  The offered SIM and micro-SIM cards.  Since I had an iPhone 4S – standard SIM worked for me.

I took the gamble for $40 and bought the plan.  I opted to have it mailed to my hotel and imagine my joy that upon arrival at my hotel a package was waiting for me.  How cool to be handed an envelope and be told ‘A package arrived for you sir’ in front of others checking in.  🙂

But there’s a little work to do with the kit.  So here’s the procedure:

  1. Unlock your phone.  If you can’t unlock your phone, the SIM option is off the table for you.  My iPhone was just out of the 2 year contract period on my AT&T account, so I chatted with their support and they sent me to a link to submit an unlock request.  Wow – they use every excuse under the sun to avoid unlocking it.  I sent in the unlock request, and was told it might take them 1-3 days to respond.  Fortunately, it was more like 4 hours.  I got an email stating it had been processed for unlocking, but that I needed to wait 24 more hours before running the procedure.  I wait 24 hours, run the procedure (which requires resetting your iPhone to factory defaults for one), and then verify it is unlocked using the IMEI website (despite it’s completely scam-y appearance).  Long story short, give yourself 3-5 days to get your phone unlocked to be safe.  Don’t leave this till last minute in case their are difficulties.IMG_1632  IMG_1633
  2. Get your package.  The kit is just a small mailing envelope with instructions and the card.  eConnect lets you either pick up the package at their airport kiosk or have it delivered to your hotel.  If you opt for airport kiosk pickup, be sure that the kiosk will be open when you arrive!  Many are only open 8am-8pm and so forth.  Be sure to account for flight delays or you’ll find yourself going back out to the airport the next day.  I opted for the hotel route and it was waiting for me when I arrived.  It takes them about a week of lead-time to get it delivered via normal mail, so again, don’t do this the day you plan to leave.IMG_1618  IMG_1635
  3. Insert the new sim – I was a little surprised to find what looked like a credit card inside the package.  But you snap out the sim from the card mounting and it is in fact a normal SIM card size.  Popping out an iPhone 4S SIM is fairly easy and you can find youtube videos for just about every major phone if you look, but I did need a pointy tool for mine.  Turns out a paperclip works fine – but there wasn’t one to be found in my hotel room.  I actually brought my own paperclip pre-bent for this purpose. I highly recommend you make sure you can get your sim in/out before you leave.  The first time I tried to get my SIM card out, it was very stiff and I had to initially pop it free with a an actual tool.  You don’t want to arrive there and find you need a tool you don’t have.
    It’s at this point that you can convert a regular SIM card to a microSIM if you need to do the surgery.  eConnect actually offers microSIM’s, but not all carriers do.  I talked to one fellow on my trip who actually brought his own scissors and file and successfully managed it for his Android phone when his Australia-friendly plan only offered regular SIM’s.  I didn’t have to do this part since mine used a standard SIM card.
    IMG_1636
  4. Set up the network password – So, I put the old SIM into the included zip-lock bag for safekeeping (you are going to need it when you get back home!), and turned the phone on.  Success!  But you do have one final step.  You need to go to the carrier settings and set the APN username and password.  The instructions included were very straightforward and easy to follow.  I entered the data and waited.
    It did take a little bit for the phone to register itself with the network the first time.   Probably a good 5 minutes.  In fact, if I turned the phone to airplane mode during the day to avoid using up data, it usually took about 1-2 solid minutes before it would pop back onto the network.  But soon enough in the upper left corner I saw not my old AT&T logo but  NTT DOCOMO.  I never got any signal strength bars but it did work fine. Coverage was great all across the country where I traveled – even out in the remoter areas in the mountains around Takayama.
  5. Enjoy!  I was very conservative with my phone use at the beginning.  I would turn the phone to airplane mode when not using it.  I also only looked up train schedules and maps.  In this mode, I used only a few dozen megabytes per day – anywhere from 10-30mb.  Later, as I got closer to the end of my trip, I even did a little bit of facebooking, left it on more during the day, etc.  Those days I got closer to about 100mb/day.  In all, 1GB for a 14 day trip was just about right.  I ended up using about 700MB of my 1GB by the end.
  6. Shipping the SIM back (not required in my case).  Some companies require you to actually ship the SIM card back to them when you’re done.  eConnect didn’t and that’s one less hassle to deal with on your leaving day.

Overall, using eConnect was a great experience and I’d totally use them again.  If you’re going to use over 1GB of data, they actually recommend you buy multiple SIM cards and use them back-to-back.  eConnect SIM cards are only good for 30 days from first use.  So, they are use-it-or-lose-it deals.  Hence another good reason to just buy multiple cards and just insert more as you use them up.

Man, I really wish it were this easy and cheap in the US.  Just another example of the terrible phone companies we have here when you see how amazingly easy and cheap it is in other countries.

 

 

Code 19, missing CD drives, iTunes and you

Code 19, missing CD drives, iTunes and you

I recently rebooted my PC and noticed my CDRom drives had all disappeared.  Not only that, but the machine was acting strangely too.  I looked at the drives, and saw each of the devices was disabled with this message:

Code 19: Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged

A quick Google turns up this article:

A registry problem was detected. This can occur when more than one service is defined for a device, if there is a failure opening the service registry entry, or if the driver name cannot be obtained from the service registry entry.

Try these options:

  • Click Uninstall, and then click Scan for hardware changes to load a usable driver.
  • If the device is a CD or DVD drive, follow the procedure in Article ID 929461 on the Microsoft Web site (http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=192798).
  • Restart the computer in Safe Mode, and then select Last Known Good Configuration. This rolls back to the most recent successful registry configuration.

When that didn’t work, I followed the link to article 929461 and tried this:

To resolve this problem, remove the affected filter drivers. To do this, follow these steps:

  1. Click Start, type regedit in the Start Search box, and then click regedit in the Programs list.
  2. If you are prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type your password or click Continue.
  3. Locate and then click the following registry subkey:
    HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}
    There can be many instances of the registry subkey that is mentioned in step 3. You must make sure that you are in the appropriate registry subkey before you change the UpperFilters and the LowerFilters values.
  4. To verify that you are in the appropriate registry subkey, make sure that the Default value is DVD/CD-ROM and the Class value is CDROM.
  5. If you see UpperFilters in the pane on the right side, right-click UpperFilters, and then click Delete.
  6. Click Yes to confirm the removal of the UpperFilters registry entry.
  7. If you see LowerFilters in the pane on the right side, right-click LowerFilters, and then click Delete.
  8. Click Yes to confirm the removal of the LowerFilters registry entry.
  9. Exit Registry Editor, and then restart the computer.

When I did this, I found that Upperfilters pointed to GEARAspiWDM.sys.  The Lowerfilters pointed to a program I knew.  In searching for GEARAspiWDM.sys, Google reveals:
http://www.file.net/process/gearaspiwdm.sys.htm

Many of the comments imply this file and service comes with iTunes.  Sure enough, I had just un-installed of iTunes 11 and the done a fall-back install of iTunes 10.7 (due to the fact they broke drag-and-drop).  I removed the filter and then remove/added each drive in turn.  The drives returned like normal and the system returned to full performance.

Thanks again Apple – for your cr*ppy iTunes software.

 

Getting Intel’s HAXM hardware accelerated Android AVD running on your system

Getting Intel’s HAXM hardware accelerated Android AVD running on your system

One of the (frankly) terrible aspects of doing Android development is the horrendously slow Android emulator. This is especially true if you do OpenGL ES development.  Fear not!  Intel has come to the rescue.  They’ve released HAXM (Hardware Accelerated Execution Manager) that dramatically speeds up your Android development and emulation.  Best part is that it’s free. The amount of time you’ll save on app start up alone makes it worth every moment you’ll spend setting it up.

Setup:

  1. Install Eclipse as your normally would
  2. Open the Eclipse SDK Manager.
  3. Install one of the latest Android API packages with two important points:
    1. The API level MUST INCLUDE AN INTEL X86 ATOM SYSTEM IMAGE (API 17 at the time of this writing).
    2. Also select the HAXM support.  Found in: ‘Extras’->’Intel x86 Emulator Accelerator (HAXM)’
      Untitled
  4. After those packages are all installed, close the manager and open Eclipse.
  5. Open a workspace and get an app ready to test (use one of the samples if necessary)
  6. Go to: Run->Run Configurations
  7. Right-click ‘Android Application’ on the list on the left and select ‘New’
  8. I named mine Standard_Run_Configuration – but you can name yours whatever.
    Untitled2
  9. Put the project name in the Project box (mine was AndroidCubeStart)
  10. Select the ‘Target’ Tab.
  11. Select the ‘Automatically pick compatible device…” option, then select the ‘Manager’ button.
    Untitled3
  12. At the Manager pane, select ‘New…’
  13. Fill out the AVD with these notes:
    1. Target MUST be one of the API target levels that has the Atom system image (see step 3)
    2. CPU/ABI must be Intel Atom (x86)
    3. In the ‘Emulation Options’ list, select ‘Use Host GPU’
    4. Select OK to save
      Untitled5
  14. You should see your new AVD listed when you’re back at the Android Virtual Device Manager page.  To test it, select it from the list and then press the ‘Start…’ button.
  15. If all goes well, you should have your hardware accelerated AVD emulator.   You should notice that the emulator runs orders of magnitude faster than the standard emulator!

 

Common problems:

I had the problem where this message appeared when I tried to run the emulator.

emulator: Failed to open the HAX device!
HAX is not working and emulator runs in emulation mode
emulator: Open HAX device failed

To fix this, I tried a number of things that didn’t work, but manually installing HAXM fixed it:

  1. Close Eclipse and Eclipse SDK manager, but still make sure you’ve got the Extras->HAXM installed in the Eclipse SDK Manager (as you did in step 3 above).
  2. Go to the Intel HAXM download page:
    http://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/intel-hardware-accelerated-execution-manager/
  3. Run the install package to the normal locations.
  4. Restart Eclipse and see if you can run the emulator via going to ‘Run’->’Run configurations’.  This time it worked for me.  You should see something like this from the message window if your HAXM is running in hardware accelerated mode.
Starting emulator for AVD 'ARM-HAXM'
emulator: device fd:756
HAX is working and emulator runs in fast virt mode
creating window 0 0 480 800
DOSBox, bad \, /, ” keys and you

DOSBox, bad \, /, ” keys and you

I was fooling around with some old GWBasic programs and needed to use DOSBox the other day.  When using DOSBox, however, I was getting bad characters for \,/,” and various other keys.  This makes using DOSBox almost impossible since you cannot change directories or issue load/save commands since they need the filename in quotes.   Yet the solution to this problem isn’t what you think.  DOSBox provides an internal key re-mapper, but it wasn’t working right and I still couldn’t get the keys I needed mapped.  Often they would just enter blank or incorrect characters.

It turns out the real culprit is a badly selected default Windows keyboard driver. Open your Windows device manager and look for the keyboards.  Often you’ll see one listed as:

“MCIR 109 Keyboard”

Change this driver to “HID Compliant device”
Then restart DOSBox and it should all be working like a champ.

Here’s the thread with more detailed info
http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=18465

Core Parking and You

Core Parking and You

So, Windows added a little feature a while back to help save power.  Unfortunately, it can have serious side effects for gaming and other high-performance computing.

Windows 7 / Server 2008  machines running on multi-core CPU’s have an obscure feature enabled by default called CPU core parking. While usually benign – some people have experienced serious issues that seem completely unrelated to this feature.  The symptoms are a decrease in performance with unstable and jittery in-game FPS, or noticeably laggy/jittery and unresponsive game play.  All this despite a high-end graphics card and CPU that should be more than capable of running the game. People have often seen this problem or described it as micro-stuttering – random fractional frame pauses that are hard to pin down precisely but are definitely noticeable and detrimental to game play.

Core parking comes in at this point.  Modern multi-threaded games often can leave a core idle for micro-portions of the frame after it has completed it’s processing and other cores are still finishing their work up.  Windows sees this idling, and decides to put the idle core in low-power mode.  Normally, threads go idle for long periods of time (often hundreds to thousands of milliseconds), so putting them to sleep is fine and can save power.  But in a game, the core goes idle only to be woken up only microseconds later for the next frame.  Unfortunately, parking and unparking has a time cost associated with the operation of a couple of micro/milliseconds – which when rendering 60+fps – actually creates noticeable tiny ‘hitches’.  It often appears randomly because it requires just the right set of conditions to cause the parking/wakeup to be visible.

So, what to do?  You can actually disable this ‘feature’ – which on a gaming rig – is probably the right action since it’s unlikely that power saving is your highest concern.  How do you do it?  Just like this:

  • Open Regedit
  • Find this key:  ” 0cc5b647-c1df-4637-891a-dec35c318583 “
  • Within this key, there is a value called:  ” ValueMax ” This value represents the % number of cores the system will park – the default is 64(hex) or 100%  ie:  all Cores are potentially park-able.
  • Change the value from 0x64 to 0 so the ” ValueMin ”  and  ” ValueMax ” are both zero
  • You will have to find the key a few times and repeat the process for each time it is found – the number of instances will depend on the number of power profiles in your system  [  for me, it was only found twice ]D
  • Do a full shutdown, power-off, and cold-re-start

Here’s a good description of the problem and how it manifests itself.

 

Foscam

Foscam

So, I recently had a Home Depot gift card about to expire.  It was going to either be another flashlight (which are always handy)


or this deal was going on for a Foscam FI8910W Wireless IP camera.  I’ve heard of these things; but figured I’d give it a shot.  It has some great features:

  • Day and night (up to about 10-15 feet – not the 8 meters they assert)
  • Wireless N or wired connectivity
  • 300 degree pan, 120 degree tilt – remotely controllable from pcs or mobile devices like phones
  • 2-way audio (listen and speak!)
  • Auto-detection of motion and broadcast+email of images from the device

The long and short is that it works great when set up; but the setup and software certainly can leave a lot to be desired.  At least the Foscam forums are easy to use and full of help.  You’ll be using them a lot.  While I was eventually able to solve my problems; I wasted a good 2 hours setting this thing up.  Unfortunately, the part that’s lacking is really the software stack.  It really does feel like a bunch of first-year computer programmers put this thing together.  They have a lot of features and they do seem to work, but they’re all very picky and error-prone.  You have to set up things jusssssst right. If you do accidentally make a mistake or set up a feature in conflict with another – it doesn’t report a problem, it just doesn’t work and doesn’t tell you why or even what is wrong.  Just 20 more minutes of coding for it to say ‘password wrong’ or ‘IP conflict’ or something like that would have solved 90% of these problems; but you won’t get that.  It’s the classic pain of trying to second-guess what the programmers were trying to do, what you know the stack needs to do, and using the woefully underpowered knobs to get it to do that. Problems that I encountered:

  1. Setting up the ability to watch the camera over the internet (not just locally)
    I credit the Foscam for the fact each camera actually gets its on unique hosting web address from Foscam.  That is slick.  However, getting it to work was a real pain.  Can’t remember all the details at this point, but check the forum for the common problems and solutions.  I remember I could easily control the camera locally on the network, but getting the camera to work through their web hosting was the pain.
  2. Setting up the auto-email on motion detection
    This was just a painful experience in bad software/firmware design.  Once you have #1 set up, it should be trivial to have the camera email you the pictures when it senses motion/audio.  The setup screen is fairly straightforward.  Type in the email address(es) you want the camera to mail pictures to; set the parameters for alerts (motion/audio events) and hit ok.  Well, I got these horrible problems where the camera would not save the settings.  I’d enter the data, enter the admin password to change the settings, then look at the info panel again and see the old settings.  Infuriating!  It turns out, the Foscam admin password CANNOT ACCEPT SPECIAL CHARACTERS.  If  you have any special characters in your admin password ($%#^!&*, etc) – then you basically just locked yourself out of changes.  I had to hit the hardware reset, pick a generic password, and only then did my changes stick.  Worse was that it didn’t tell you this anywhere or warn you when you were picking the admin password.  It would just act like it saved the settings, but not and merrily go on its way.
  3. Motion detection with still images is pretty much broken/useless
    When you use the email stills when motion happens feature, 1 out of 2 times the person is long gone by the time the shot fires.  I tested it a couple times, and you need a full 2 seconds of the person moving in the field of view before the shot is taken.  If someone just walks across the path of view, most of the time you get an email of an empty room.  I believe the recording of video option is better, but you better make the field of view big or place the camera such that it will have a full 2 seconds of the person moving in the target area before the shot fires.
  4. Auto-panning
    The camera had a nasty habit of going into auto-scanning paning/tiling mode when it got confused.  So you’d see/hear the little camera looking all over the place every now and again if you logged in or it reset itself.  I disabled the feature in software and it stopped.

Supposedly these are some of the better cameras out there.  But if that’s the case – then I’m disappointed.  It was worth it since it was nearly free to me; but if I’d paid the list price on this thing – I’d have been pretty upset and took it back.  It works great now; but the setup was painful and it’s poor auto-notification of motion detection give it two solid strikes.