Japhy Riddle in a hackaday article tries to re-create the look of old CRT sub-pixels – the individual red, green, blue phosphors that make up a single pixel. His approach is to basically fake it with Photoshop, but old systems like the Apple II, debayering, and even modern text anti-aliasing actually use some of these techniques.
The world has gotten very familiar to retro hardware re-creations, game emulation, re-releases, speed runs, creating new games for old platforms, as well as new exploits, tools, and discoveries. The nitty gritty work of doing all of this, however, is a labor of love. For those that dig into the binary, there’s tricky copyright concerns that need to be managed, only scraps of information about old hardware and software, highly optimized/tricky code that is tough to read, and almost no financial gain – except for commercial re-releases.
Made Up of Wires walks us through a live bit of decompiling of the PS1 classic: Castlevania: Symphony of the Night to give you a taste of the work involved in this kind of work. Not really that different than any other reverse engineering but surprisingly accessible as these old games were relatively small and simple.
I was recently making my own retro 486 DX 66 PC build and needed to add an ISA sound card that supported both DOS and Windows games. A genuine Sound Blaster card would definitely work, but buying an genuine Sound Blaster Pro will run you well over $150+ (over $200 with it’s box)
In googling around, I found this great thread on Vogons where someone asked the same question: Is there a cheaper alternative than finding a Sound Blaster/Sound Blaster Pro? It turns out there is – the really excellent ESS AudioDrive ES1868.
I had not heard of the ESS AudioDrive ES1868 ISA sound card before, but it is considered one of the best Sound Blaster clone cards. It has tons of features such as Sound Blaster Pro 2 compatibility (something even the Sound Blaster 16 doesn’t have!). It is extremely easy to set up for DOS and Windows, has mixer inputs for line-in, microphone, CD input, wavetable, and is a really quiet card (as opposed to Sound Blaster 16’s that suffered from chronic hum and pop issues to the point it was often called the ‘NoiseBlaster’). The drivers are easy to set up and even support non-PnP configuration. It makes the card work with 99% of DOS games. Even better, the cards are readily available for around $25-$30.
I bought a card for $25 off eBay and installed it without issue. The ESS drivers are available on Phil’s Computer Lab link (below). I download the drivers, ran the installer, and set the parameters during install to the same as a default Sound Blaster card: A220 I7 D1 H5 P330 T6
Address: 220h
IRQ: 7
DMA: 1
Port: 330h
Type: 6
I then popped up my copy of Wolfenstein 3D, chose the Sound Blaster output option with default parameters and got all the awesome audio of yesteryear.
Learning everything there is to know about the different Sound Blaster and clone sound cards:
DOS Days has really excellent write-ups on all the various Sound Blaster cards with pros and cons of each. I’m really glad I read up on the different models before buying a generic Sound Blaster 16. There’s a tremendous wealth of information about issues unique to each card. Definitely a site worth reading before buying a card from eBay.
They also have an exhaustive list of all kinds of other sound cards which includes info on the ESS Audiodrive cards. There’s a ton of great information about the different models and where they fit in the sound card landscape. A definite must read.
Links:
My first video card was the original 8-bit Sound Blaster card. Besides upgrading to VGA graphics, nothing changed my gaming experience back in the day more than this one upgrade.
Enter the Snark Barker. It’s an open source project that gives you a complete bill of materials, circuit diagram, board fab files, and tons of other information you need to make your own. Yes, MAKE your own Soundblaster clone. It looks like a very doable project for those a little handy with a soldering iron.
Links:
David Larsson makes a bunch of clone ISA audio boards such as the Gravis Ultrasound, 8-bit ISA Soundblaster, MCA Sound Blaster, Disney Sound Source. He sells them on Tindie for pretty reasonable prices considering the ebay prices for the original boards.
Here’s a good review of his 8-bit Soundblaster card:
These aren’t the only sound card clones. Turns out there are lots of others too:
Links:
Texelec makes some amazing retro PC equipment. They make clone Adlib and soundblaster cards, EMS ram boards for 8 bit computers,
One of the things they make is an 8-bit ISA floppy controller board that control up to 4 floppy drives.
Here’s a collection of all the tools you’ll need to set up an old MFM style hard drive in a XT/286/386/486 computer.
Microsoft has recently release DOS 4.0 as MIT licensed OpenSource.
Dave’s Garage does a walkthrough of the history, sets up a dev environment (masm and C 5.1 compiler), builds the source, then bonus points for writing it to an actual 5.25″ floppy using a greaseweazle. He then boots it off an actual IBM XT.
Tech Tangents talks about how preservationists use tools like GreaseWeasle to back up disks.
It helped me a lot when learning how to back up and write my own disks.
Have written previously about my experiments with the very excellent Greaseweazle; but that was reading things like my old Kings Quest 5.25″ floppy disks from my modern 12th Gen Intel PC running Windows 10.
Recently I acquired some old pc hardware and put together a retro 486-DX pc. To that end, I needed to create a DOS boot disk for this old system. That meant I needed to write a 1.2mb DOS boot disk.
Previously I used some boot disk images to create an old DOS virtual machine running Windows 1.0. For that, I used a bunch of archived boot disks images from WinWorld archive.
But how do I write these little beasts?
I floundered around with greaseweezle’s command line but this guide from Tech Tangents really helped out. There’s clearly a lot more I need to learn, but this got me a bootable 5.25″ 1.2mb floppy disk. I was able to test it on 2 different drives, and both worked. So, that’s pretty sweet!
How to write DOS 6.22 image to a 5.25″ 1.2m floppy drive attached to the ribbon cable right before the cable twist:
gw write --drive b --format ibm.1200 Dos6.22-5.25.img
To write a DOS 3.30 image to a 5.25″ 360k floppy drive attached to the ribbon cable right before the twist:
gw write --drive b --format ibm.360 DOS330-360k.img